Lekala 4068

Lekala (and the similar Bootstrap Fashions) is a site that allows you to input your standard measurements and they customise patterns for you.  You would think that this would guarantee you a better fit than an off the shelf pattern, but read on for my tale of woe…

Fabric

 

This blouse just cries out for colour blocking.  I used a jacaranda/purple quilting cotton, with toning broadcloth for the blocks.

Pattern

2016_technical_drawing_20214

Lekala 4608.

I liked the pleating, the ability to colour block, and the shape of the shoulders.

Adaptations

Naturally, I didn’t use the pattern as is: For this pattern, given that it was customised just for me, I actually did make it according to the pattern.

It was way too small.

On investigation, the pattern was designed for knits (but was categorised with the zero stretch patterns).

How hard can it be to add stretch back into the pattern? I asked myself.  So I increased the width of all the pieces to compensate for using woven fabric.

It is still not right.  The pleats just hit me too high, and the broadcloth cotton seems too thin for a fitted blouse.

Techniques

Sorry – no in progress photos!

No special techniques for this one.

Results

 

File 26-3-17, 7 58 41 pm

This is a wadder! The pattern concept is too good to give up, but I need to redraft the pattern to make it work for me:

  • either make in the knit fabric it was designed for or reshape the pieces to work with woven
  • Ironically, the customised curve from waist to hip means that with the stretch-compensation-adjustment, the top now too loose around the butt!
  • If making using woven fabric, shift the pleats down by about 2 inches so they run across my bust rather than above it. Sew2Pro has an interesting tutorial on drafting pleats.

Links

Pattern Review

Lekala

Sew2Pro – drafting pleats

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