Burda 124 Wrap Blouse

I actually completed 90% of this about 6 weeks ago.  The hem was thwarting me.

 Fabric

Unknown manufacturer quilting cotton in a fabulous magenta scrolling swirl pattern.

swirl

Pattern

124-072016-B_large

Burda 124 Wrap Blouse

Adaptations

Naturally, I didn’t use the pattern as is:

  • the pattern was designed for knits.  The quilting cotton had a slight cross-wise stretch and by cutting the pattern on the bias, I got to about 14% stretch.
  • usual high/big butt plus wide hips adjustments
  • graded up 1 size from the bust to the hips, but kept the armscyre and neckline as per standard
  • Ignored the wrap ties and replaced with 2 buttons holding the front pieces closed.  I will probably need to use a safety pin/hook and eye to keep things modest.

Techniques

Sorry – no in progress photos!

  • First time cutting and sewing on the bias. I must say, it is much easier using a stable fabric rather than a satin!  I followed the SeamWork guidelines religiously, but probably didn’t need to.
  • Standard techniques – french seams, lots of top stitching, facing around armholes
  • Failed to use the adjustable bias binder foot to encase waist seam (I think I broke the presser foot). In hindsight, I should have known the foot could not accommodate 6 layers of fabric at the seam joins and should have applied it manually.
  • I ended up pinking the waist seams, so fingers-crossed that will stop the fraying.
  • Failed to use the 1″ wide hemmer – it was just too loose to hold the fabric.  Did a dodgy topstitched hem instead.

Results

Very comfortable top, with a flattering sleeve line that emphasises the shoulders (very useful for a pear-shaped person).

image1

Next time, I will not bother facing the armholes, but use the double-layered sleeve to encase the seams (as per New Look 6808).

I will also add the ties back in for a more secure option than the buttons.

Links

BurdaStyle 124

A Guide to Working on the Bias

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