New Look 6808

I’m on a mission to build up my me-made wardrobe for work.

Fabric

Since cloning my gathered shell top multiple times, I’ve become a convert to using quilting cotton (I know, controversial choice!) for blouses.  The cotton handles beautifully while sewing, doesn’t crumple too badly during the day, recovers from the wash’n’wear style laundry that is a speciality of my household, and comes in a range of terrific colours and prints.  The only downside is that it requires more tailored shapes as it is a crisp fabric (very little drape) and can be a bit coarse until softened by multiple washes.

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For this blouse, I used Maywood Studio’s Pearl Essence Wishful in pale teal.  The fabric was terrific – beautifully soft with a slight cross-wise stretch that will make very comfortable clothing.  I will look for this brand again.

Pattern

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New Look 6808 View C.

I liked the wide boat neckline as I generally go for a deeper scoop.  Plus getting some blouses with sleeves is a bonus as my last lot have all been sleeveless tank-styles.

Adaptations

Naturally, I didn’t use the pattern as is:

  • usual high/big butt plus wide hips adjustments
  • graded up 1 size from the bust to the hips, but kept the armscyre and neckline as per standard size 18
  • Replaced the facing + collar with an interfaced pseudo-collar that was topstitched down with a decorative button rescued from an old tunic – this enclosed all seams without the fuss of a free collar
  • Ignored the zipper along the side seam

Techniques

Sorry – no in progress photos!

  • First time I’ve traced a pattern using the pinked tracing wheel onto my self-repairing cutting mat.  Much easier than blu-tacking it and the craft paper to a window!
  • Standard techniques – french seams, use of top stitching to enable neckline and armscyres to be enclosed
  • Ignored the instructions for fitting the sleeve and applied it essentially like an extra-wide bias binding.  I sewed the outside layer down first, then basted down the inside layer and secured it by “stitch-in-the-ditch”.
  • Successfully used 4/8″ hemming foot for 95% of the hem, with top stitching across the side-seam lines.

Results

I call this a success!

During the sew, I was debating whether the neckline was too wide as there seemed to be some gaping across the chest when I moved my arms forward.  Also I was concerned that my bra-straps would show.  However, adding the sleeves has stabilised the fit so I can get away with it.

As the cap sleeves are snug, I will need to deepen the armscyre and increase the bicep circumference if creating View A (with sleeves) in future.

Links

Pattern Review

Simplicity/NewLook

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