Emil-Liana Culottes, Take 2

After the disappointment that I hadn’t conquered pants at my first attempt, I tried again.

Fabric

Basic brown/khaki cotton drill from Lincraft.  I bought it online and expected the colour to be more green and less brown (don’t be fooled by the onscreen colour – in real life it is quite ugly).  Pockets, waistband and front facing using cheap quilting cotton bought to make muslins.

Pattern

Emily Culottes hybrid with the Liana Jeans, both from Itch to Stitch.  This time, I wanted a pair of mid rise, fly fronted A-line culottes with jeans style pockets.  No more box pleats!

Note the Liana jeans are designed for fabric with 20% stretch, and consider what adaptations I make to compensate for my non-stretch fabric.

Adaptations

Naturally, I didn’t use the pattern as is.  On top of the alterations I made to the Emily Culottes in Take 1, I made the following changes.

  • I frankenpatterned the Liana fronts with the Emily backs and leg shape.
  • I added 1 inch in width to the Liana fronts to compensate for lack of horizontal stretch provided by the cotton drill.
  • Additionally, I took another inch off the height of the Liana fronts because I planned to use the Emily waistband which was 1 inch deeper than for Liana.
  • I ended up adding darts into the back waist as it was bagging out – essentially taking another inch out of the width of the Emily Culottes.
  • As mentioned in my earlier post, I had already mucked around fairly significantly with the Emily crotch curve, but the Liana fronts took another 4cm out of the depth (total reduction 10cm  or 4″ of crotch depth, and 7.5 cm or 3″ in front crotch height).  Given the baggy crotch I had experienced with Take 1, I was all for this.

Techniques

Sorry – can’t be bothered with in progress photos!  Same techniques as Take 1, plus:

  • Jeans fly zip – I used the fabulous sewalong instructions supplied by Itch to Stitch – they were so good I bought the Liana pattern to say thanks.
  • Extended pocket facings used to reinforce fly front (again per the Itch to Stitch sewalong)
  • Actually used my Janome’s automatic buttonhole setting successfully!

Results

Improved but still mixed results. Fresh off the sewing machine, I was very concerned I had over compensated with taking width and height out of the front crotch curve and had made the culottes too small.

However, the usual 30 mins of wear loosened them up and I’m happy I got the height right. But I’m getting smiley faces around the crotch, so I should probably have added back the 4cm of depth the Liana pattern removed.

 

image2

The culottes are wearable out in public, particularly because I usually wear my shirts loose so no one will see the front is a bit tight.  Shame about the colour – it is not really to my taste.

Planned adaptations for next time:

  • keep tinkering with the crotch curve
  • remember the Emily waistband has no allowance for fly shield and add extra, extra length
  • Select fabric in person rather than relying on online colour representation
  • Replace the side zip with a front fly
  • Get rid of the box pleats!

Links

Itch to Stitch

Itch to Stitch Liana Jeans Sewalong – highly recommended!

Pattern Review

 

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