Simplicity 6046

As Melbourne’s long Indian Summer continues, the search for interesting work tops continues.

Fabric

Batik cotton with fabulous colours on a dark purple background.  I grabbed about 5m when it was on sale at Spotlight for $6m per metre.

The fabric was a bit stiff compared to past quilting cottons, but that worked well for the structured lines of the blouse.

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Pattern

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Simplicity 6046 c 1973:  The lined long or short coat with back inverted pleat has below elbow length raglan sleeves with cuffs, rounded notched collar, loop and button closing. The sleeveless long or short dress with shaped bodice front features high round neckline, stand up collar, back zipper and optional sequin trim.

I originally bought the pattern because I liked the shape of the coat, but in my hunt for unusual blouse shapes I gave the dress a second look.

I loved the unusual bodice shaping – something that was a bit lost in the busy pattern of the fabric I chose, but still gave a very flattering fit.

Adaptations

Naturally, I didn’t use the pattern as is:

  • graded up 2 sizes, keeping the shoulder width and neckline as is
  • Converted the dress into a blouse by ending just below the high hip point
  • Replaced the back waist and shoulder darts by shaping the centre back seam

Techniques

Sorry – can’t be bothered with in progress photos!

  • Lots of unpicking throughout the make with this one.
  • First time joining 3 angles to create the triangular centre seam on the front bodice – I took a couple of goes to get this right.
  • After facing one armhole (including topstitching!) got annoyed because the facing kept flipping out.  Couldn’t be bothered investing more time on the armhole facing, so ripped it out and bound both armscyres with bias binding.
  • Inserted an invisible zip – my second ever attempt and 80% successful, thanks to the invisible zipper tutorial at the Colette blog.
    It did take a couple of goes to get needle in the right place.  I don’t think the Janome invisible zip foot puts the needle in the right place (too far right of the zip teeth) so freestyled it using the standard zig-zag foot.  There was some wobbling along the line, so this is something I need to work on.

Results

Very happy with the overall shape of the blouse, and impressed with my basic maths that I got it almost perfect with the first attempt on this pattern.  I don’t have the patience to repeatedly test patterns with essentially throwaway muslins so I do spend quite a bit of time adjusting the paper pattern before cutting.

The only adjustments I made during this sew were:

  • reduce the height of the front armscyre to reduce bagging.
  • Redid the centre  back curve over the butt as the shape was wrong (too sharp an inflection point, which created bagging).  I used up the full 1.5cm seam allowance to ease the line, but this curve needs to be redone in Take 2.

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I’m already planning a remake.  Planned adaptations for next time:

  • Use a plain fabric to show off the seam lines (will need to improve slighty dodgy topstitching!).
  • I will add the cap sleeves from New Look 6808 to help stabilise the armhole line.
  • I am also likely to adapt the neckline to more of a scoop shape as the collar is already annoying me slightly.
  • I will also adjust the curve of the back centre seam to remove the slight bagging.

Links

Very much out of print, so no links back to Simplicity

Vintage Sewing Patterns wikia

Pattern Review

Colette blog – Invisible zipper tutorial

 

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