New Look 6395

So we’ve had a long-over due cold snap over the last week, with temperatures dipping to 10°C overnight, and not getting much higher than 15°C during the day (contrast this with the previous week where it could stay over 20°C overnight).

So you would think that I should start thinking about making some more winter-appropriate clothes than blouses made from Japanese lawn.  But you would be incorrect…

I happened to be at Hoppers Crossing to pick up a floor lamp, so naturally I had to check out the latest Spotlight specials.

Fabric

Japanese lawn (a lightweight cotton) from the remnant bin – about 1.3m for $8! (less than half the usual price per metre).  The colours are unusual for me – I like wearing green, but the pattern includes mustards and browns that I usually keep well away from.

I cut on the cross-grain, to allow the more dominate yellow/mustard flower pattern to run vertically and have the flowers oriented more vertically than sideways.

image1

After cutting out the pattern, this is all I had left – not even enough to cut another collar.

Pattern

New Look 6395:  view D minus ties and sleeve cuffs.

I was hunting around for a pattern that would fit the fabric, plus a sleeved top for work and this fit the bill.

Adaptations

Naturally, I didn’t use the pattern as is:

  • Made a sway-back adjustment by using 2 pieces for the back and shaping the centre back seam as per Simplicity 6046.
  • Cut size 18 for bodice, grading to 22 at the hips.

Techniques

Sorry – can’t be bothered with in progress photos!

  • Pretty straight forward sew – the only new technique was applying a narrow French seam to the armhole to tidy up the seams.  Research had indicated that French seams could not be used around curves, but the Grainline tuturial shows that the technique works perfectly around the armhole too.
  • I set the sleeves in flat (ie I put them in before sewing up the side seams). Much easier than trying to fit 2 curved shapes together!

Throughout the sew, I was supervised closely by Bruno, who approved of both my approach and the warmth provided by the iron.

File 2-4-17, 1 21 51 pm

Results

Very happy with the quality of my sew – all edges are contained within french seams or hems, collar is neatly fitted and it all came together very easily.

image21

However, the result is very… fitted… for what looks to be a loose fitting peasant style top on the pattern cover.

I didn’t pay much attention to the sizing on the envelope, as I had previously made New Look 6808,  where I graded from a size 16 bodice to 20 at the hips which left me with plenty (even too much) ease.  When sizing I just compared the pattern pieces to my traced shapes used for Simplicity 6046 (the back) and New Look 6808 (the front) and made the adjustments that way.  I did measure the sleeve bicep width against my arm, but that seemed to be OK.

What I didn’t allow for was Simplicity 6046 is a sleeveless top and therefore curves in around the back armhole, while New Look 6395 needs that additional width across the back to allow for arm movement with a sleeve.

Which leaves me with a wearable, but… fitted… blouse.

I’m already planning another version.  Planned adaptations for next time:

  • Add 1.5″ to width of the sleeve cap to provide more ease around the bicep.
  • Add at least 2″ of width at the back – especially along the shoulder/sleeve join to give more wearing ease.
  • Make the button loops longer if using grosgrain ribbon again (the stuff I used was really too thick for the job, but it was available and in the right colour)
  • Add another 1.5″ to each side seam along the back to give more ease around the hips.

Links

New Look/Simplicity

Pattern Review

Grainline Studios – French all your seams

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