Frankenpattern: New Look 6483 + New Look 6808

This is another sleeveless top I can wear under jackets for work.  Probably a little late in the season (as the weather has turned), but a good way to use up remnant bargains.

Fabric

DSCF1610

Lightweight rayon print – Oriental Garden.  90cm scrap grabbed from the remnant bin for $6 (less than half price).  However it had been badly cut and only about 75cm of the length was useable.

I had originally intended to include short sleeves as per New Look 6808 – but the fabric length was about 5cm too short to include them.

Facings have been cut from a knit fusible interfacing – partly because there was no rayon left, and partly to test out some ideas from the internet.

Pattern

Using the New Look 6483 View D neckline and facings plus the New Look 6808 body I already adapted.

Adaptations

Back and front waist darts have been moved to the centre back or side seams.

Techniques

  • Completely enclosed all in one armhole/neckline facing (see video tutorial link below)
  • Using fusible knit interfacing as the facing material, then fuse.  I got this idea from a sewing blog, and will link when I rediscover the post.

Results

DSCF1611

Very happy with the new techniques – I will use both of them again.

Using the knit fusible interfacing has given some structure around the neck and arm holes, but allowed the rayon to keep its drape.  Sewing the interfacing directly to the main fabric (not fusing to a facing then sewing the facing to the fabric) saves time, fabric and removes bulk.
EDIT:  after washing the knit fusible interlining shrinks slightly, creating a puckered appearance across the top.  A firm ironing flattens this out again.
No decent photos of me wearing the top, but the neckline was both deep and wide, and there was some bagging around the armhole. Consistent with the post title, I ended up tucking and stitching down about 2cm off the length of both front and back necklines which improved the fit immensely, including bringing up the waist shaping to correctly follow the contours of my back.
I need to look into this as a standard adjustment.
If I make the top again, things I would change:
  • Remove 2cm length from front and back necklines (done)
  • Take in 0.5 cm depth from the front arm hole (done)

Links

Simplicity/New Look

Pattern Review

YouTube Tutorial for the all seams enclosed facing method

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